1/12/2023 0 Comments Quickshade vs washesIt creates stunning and realistic shading effects on your Warhammer figures, Dungeons and Dragons DnD miniatures and other military wargame and boardgame models.It is also ideal in touching up mistakes. Yep, got the droppers, not the big can thingy.Get All 11 Incredible Color Washes in 1 Set: Add Extra Shade, Touch Up Mistakes and Make Your Miniature Models!The Army Painter Quickshade Wash Set is a complete package containing a great selection of color paint washes for your miniatures paint kit! This set contains 11 Quickshade Washes that will get you perfect shading every time and the option of adding a color tone to your models.More than Just Washing Your Models Quickly - Our collection of Quickshade Wash is a revolutionary pigmented wash specifically designed for models and detailed miniatures. They are used as traditional washes. I expect it is these you have. The "ink" or "wash" style quickshades are water-based, come in dropper bottles and dry in half an hour or so. This is the so-called "army painter method". when dry the minis are mostly done and shaded. You are supposed to base colour the mini, then dip them into this gunk and shake off the excess. (they are based on a kind of furniture stain/ varnish). These are oil-based and need at least a day to dry. The "dip" style quickshades typically come in a tin and they stink. Some of the confusion you mention might come from some comments applying to the one, and some to the other type. To add to the confusion they have the same names."dark quickshade" "Strong quickshade" etc Woo! Tutorial! (:įantastic, thanks! Those specific uses are a godsend - I was actually gonna do a follow-up post about the specific uses, but hey! Now that's completely unnecessary!Īlso be aware that Army Painter have two types of "quickshade", the dips and the inks / washes Woo! Science!ĮDIT: Also, an article on washes. green, red, blue, purple) work well with their colors for shading.ĮDIT: To follow-up on ManvsMini (: here're an article on DIY wash and surface tension. Once you use up any of the washes, pick up the Army Painter Quickshade Ink set, a set of washes. ogres, flesh-colored ghouls) before moving on to heroes. I would start with flesh on monsters (eg. * Flesh: Personally, I find flesh tricky to use. This will give you your shading without making the miniature look dirty. Also, for heroic miniatures, after a white primer, wash in dark wash, then optionally drybrush in white, then paint basecoats. With "flat" armor, like plate, only shade the gaps between pieces of armor. With textured armor, such as chainmail, after the wash dry brush the chainmail with metal. Appearance will look dirty, so I don't use them with heroes. With greenskins, you will eventually want Green Ink. * Brown: Slop and glop over monsters, particularly skeletons. I then paint as needed.įor your specific washes, start with these. In fact, I also use colored primers followed by a wash, instead of primer, basecoat, wash. Myself, I paint 20+ miniatures at a time, so premade washes save me time. If you *like* mixing your own paints, you might not depend on washes as much as painters who just want their miniatures painted. How washes are better than watered-down paints is that they prevent "rings" from forming. Since you have experience using watered-down paints, use the washes as you did these paints. Washes settle in the recesses, so you don't have to paint the shadows yourself. I hate work.īasecoat, wash, base color, highlight, is a common method, so start with that. Main advantage is that you get the most results with the least work.
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